Compressed Travel

To state the obvious, Covid-19 has changed everything. Since retiring to Grenada seven years ago, we leave the island in May and come back sometime in early fall, to avoid the hot, humid, hurricane-season. Not so this year. 

While we can now travel almost anywhere, we could not come back as flights from the US are not allowed to land in Grenada. Or if we did manage to come back, we'd have to do a mandatory 14 day quarantine, at our own, considerable, expense.

Yet, the travel bug bit us, so where to go? If you could imagine a place with no Covid-19, no crime, no racial tensions, no police brutality, sunshine, beaches, incredibly friendly locals, where would that be?

If you said the tiny rock in the Atlantic called Petite Martinique, you would be right. It's the smallest of the three main islands which make up the state of Grenada. The population of around 600 people are a mixture of African, Chinese, European and Indian ancestry.

On arrival we were greeted like long lost friends. The warm welcome makes it a no-brainer to visit this little gem. To get there take the ferry from Grenada to Carriacou. At Carriacou, transfer to a much smaller ferry for the 25-minute ride to Petite Martinique. 

En route you pass several islands, bigger, smaller, inhabited or not. One of the most outstanding views is of Union Island, with its unique silhouette of two steep peaks with a valley in between. We were also entertained by the brown boobies, big sea birds who cleverly use the updrafts created by the boat to get a lift to help them dive for their prey.

But it wasn't all smooth sailing. When the ferry tied up, there was a four-foot difference between the ferry deck and the dock. With the ferry gently rocking, climbing out seemed an impossible task. Thankfully two very attentive gentlemen came to my rescue and hauled me up to the dock in a most undignified manner.

Our guest house, Millennium Connection, was recommended by a native Petite Martiniquan friend. It's modest, clean and comfortable and just a three-minute walk from the ferry jetty. It also hosts an onsite mini market that provided all the food we needed and a souvenir shop where we netted a few treasures.

As we were the only guests, we had the free run of the house. A nearby restaurant supplied our lunch on the day we arrived. We made our own light dinner then sat outside on the verandah, looking at the lights of Carriacou in one direction and Union Island in the other. 

Breakfast was cooked for us upon request, a special local fare, with farine shark, fried plantains, salad, bakes and scrambled eggs. Far more than we usually eat. In the morning we went for a walk along the beach just as the sun was rising, then a stretch along the only road on the island. We went exploring a bit more when it cooled down in the evening.

The most outstanding sensation on Petite Martinique is the feeling of utter peace. It was an almost palpable physical sensation, as if a caring person had gently lowered a gossamer cover over us. Once again, we are thankful for living in a place where this type of travel and experience can be had.
Our ferry leaving Petite Martinique was delayed while construction workers unloaded breeze blocks. The time stretched way beyond when we should have been in Carriacou to connect with the Osprey ferry to Grenada. I fretted, having nightmares about being stranded. The laid-back young captain assured me that there was no need to worry, the Osprey would not leave without us. But two hours delay just to wait for us? I could not really believe this.

When we eventually left Petite Martinique, the captain informed us that he would bring his boat alongside the Osprey rather than dock in town where he usually lets off passengers. Cue another undignified disembarkation and embarkation! From the bouncing small ferry, up a ladder to the bouncing Osprey. Once again, helping hands hauled me up safely and we were on our way.

I cannot imagine another place in the world where this kind of accommodation could happen. No wonder I love living here.